Saturday May 6, 2000 Charlie
Up about regular time; did some final paperwork, had Starbucks etc. Took Florence to breakfast: Newport Bay and Appleby’s were both closed; ate at the Marriott Motel near her house – buffet. Packed out at 23 lbs. cw and 17 lbs bw in our Rick Steves; w/o about 6-8 lbs in our knapsacks. Took Mutik to the kennel, where we asked for a haircut now and a dip and bath at the end. Paid $3.00 more for 20 play each day. Called town car (1) but booked already. Drove to airport. Fee is $8 a day, but feel also cap at $48 (not $56) per week. Got to Horizon terminal @ 12:30 so took the 12:30 (1 hr earlier than scheduled). Got to SeaTac about 1 pm. Went to the British Air gate which was an error. Later went back to ticketing and checked in and checked our bags. The flight is non-stop and has two meals. Ate lunch in a bar at South Satellite. They use a set of 3 subway trains to move people between the various terminals.
Called DJW from gate to inquire about getting him a football (soccer) shirt. He wants color red. Bren has second cold sore. I feel like I’m getting a cold. I stopped taking my hay fever medicine.
May 6, 2000 Brenda
We traveled from PDX to SeaTac – too early – have to wait for hours. Went to departure gate first – ate – went back to ticket counter to get boarding passes.
Sunday May 7 London Charlie
On plane in “world traveler” section fitted a a 3+4+3=10 across; narrow and close. We sat across aisle from each other at row 37; 6 toilets at row 60? in rear. Got 2 kosher meals; chicken dinner and continental breakfast. They were served early/first; about 20 min. before others! Drank lots of water and urinated about 4 times. Slept about 3 hrs (??) using sleep mask provided. Loosened boots but did not use “socks” provided. Also got a toothpaste and brush combo which used later. Arrived on schedule about noon.
Out through passport control, got bags, repacked mine so all in one, Greenlined out of Custome. Got Express + 1(underground) into town via 15 min train ride (once started around 4-terminal loop) and Yellow line 3 stops to Kensington High Street. Walked to hotel; about 3 minutes.
No reservations in hotel computer for us; but Luis gave us a room #234, he could not find us in hotel records. Room is quite small but has TV, refrig, safe. I called JAC and left message at the anonymous answer machine. Went to bed for 60 minutes, then showered Mat in tub slips quite easily, can fall and self-castrate. Lots of hot water? Bath had the new 2-round-prong low current shaver outlet and a 110/220 VAC transformer all built in. Tea at Muffin Man. Left about 5:05: 100% residential. Walked about and made our way back to the hotel by about 6:30. Wanted to eat lightly; but Bren very spacy (She felt poorly before the nap so we got Milk of Magnesia at Boots and she drank a slug. She added a migraine killer pill due to nausea and headache. This spaced her so she had difficulty navigating the streets). Bought yogurt, rolls, bottled coffee and digestive biscuits ( and more water). Had “dinner” in the garden by the pond. Nice!
Got 2nd room key, paid 2 pounds per night for safe’s use and Bren went to bed for 2nd 60 min nap. She looks ragged. I got a Bud at the bar and came back to the garden to write this. (Bren now has 2 cold sores!) The Wells Fargo credit card works ok; got 50 pounds. Since I put up no credit card for the room, my phone is blocked. They will not divulge the room rate (I paid 90 pounds a night to JAC). The in-house pub is quite smoky . I wonder if I am getting a cold or sinus infection or just losing the no same pollen bet? Passed by St Mary Abbots at 5:45 at Kensington High St. and Kensington Church St; playing bells for about 15 min. The garden with tables, chairs, benchs is quite nice and may make this hotel ok overall. Slept ok 10 – 1 a.m. Up to take nasal spritz and pop ingrown hair on ribs and cover with band-aid and chemical. Went on hike to Nottinghill Gate 8 am to 9:15, Bren still not feel really chipper.
May 7, 2000 London Brenda
Long trip, tired. Was sick – terrible headache, terrible nausea – couldn’t eat when we arrived in London. Had tea – couldn’t even eat toast at Muffin Man. Took Milk of Magnesia, not sure it helped. Took several naps. Walked around Kensington High Church etc. Sat in garden of Hotel Forte-Posthouse.
May 8, 2000 London Charlie
Up at 6:30. Felt ok. Stuff washed at 8 p.m. is not dry yet (socks, pants and underwear. Ate at full breakfast buffet for 6 pds each. The poached eggs were served on fried but oil soaked toast. Worked hotel details: reported bad light in bath, bought telephone card, put incidentals on ccard, added 3 pds safe day, verified that our reservations for now and later are still NOT in hotel computer. Lots of business types! Took tube toward Tower, ended up going wrong way so Kensington to Earles Court to Nottinghill to Tower!! Long delays on Circle line. Bought 3 men’s handkerchiefs at Marks & Spencer.
May 8 London Charlie
Did Tower tour. Saw grounds and Warder chapel with Warder (Sgt only since Wellington), then solo to Crown Jewels in White Tower. Saw Ravens. The yad 6, now 7; they clip 1 wing so they cannot fly and take good care of them. Warders are in “working blue” uniforms generally. Saw Redcoat sentry marching very formally. Ran out of steam suddenly and at same time in White Tower. Went to restaurant opposite but it did not “feel good” so left. Ate at Kentucky Fired Chicken on verge of a quarrel due to exhaustion. Meal really perked us up.
Went on Tower Bridge tour. Lost of stairs; but got to climb one tower (N) cross over river at the 180 ft (?) level and came down the south tower. This route was for daily and usual pedestrians when the bridge was raised for ships! Had been a pedestrian tunnel earlier. Went to Katherine’s wharf and had coffee. Quite nice. It is a marina connected to the north bank of the Thames at Tower Bridge but a lock (Thames is tidal up 9-10 meters 2 x a day. Went to Tower Hill tube in the rain. Circle not function our way so to next CW and xfer to Red Line to Nottinghill Gate. Heavy rain so bought 2 umbrellas.
David Call of Elderhostel @ 7:50 p.m. People her and coming 8:30 until 2 p.m. Gave us a schedule for Tues/Wed. Tues 12:30 lunch at Greens, 5 p.m. meeting @ Garden Room 5:45 dinner. Generally no a.m. classes so configure in morning for all day. He’s about 60 and retired Outdoor school teacher; wife is counsellor at Community College.
Went to both “quilt shops”. First was a consultant re draperies. Second was deep into Notting Hill beyond the outdoor market and quite slummy. Street people lived under the viaduct @ 300 Portobello where we turned back. Bought bar of soap for bath. Checked B of A card @ M & S at 9 a.m. Not work. Used 2 x @ a bank; worked ok. Dinner @ Rat and Parrot Pub; beef pot pie and fish and chips.
Back at hotel at 7 p.m. Needed to use Desitin for crotch due to “mildew” and abrasion. Will wash shirt tonight.
Met David Call in lobby. Went our for tea and cake; ended up @ “Restaurant Alley” opposite “Yogurt store”. Washed clothes and to bed @ 10:30.
May 8, 2000 London Brenda
Woke up feeling great. Had breakfast in Green’s Room and left for Tower Hill. Took tour of Tower of London with Yeoman Warder.
Saw beheading place of Anne Bolyn, Jane Howard, and others. Walked around White Tower on our own. Built by order of William the Conquerer after 1066. Saw Crown Jewels.
The ravens presence is traditionally believed to protect The Crown and the Tower; a superstition holds that “if the Tower of London ravens are lost or fly away, the Crown will fall and Britain with it.”
Did tour of Tower Bridge. Had coffee in small marina. It started to rain. We went by Center Line (red) to Notting Hill Gate. Walked up and down Portobello Road to look for quilt and fabric store. No longer fabric store. Quilting shop was upstairs and did draperies etc so we didn’t go up. Had dinner in Parrot & Rat (beef potpie). Met with our tour guide for a quick visit – David Call. Will meet with group tomorrow at 5 p.m. Went for coffee (tea) and dessert in a restaurant at 8:30. To bet at 10:30.
May 9, 2000 Charlie
Plan: Light shopping, tour, back @ (before) 5 p.m. meeting. Ate well in regular paid-for room for Continental breakfast – adequate.
Decided to leave post-trip hotel reservation issue until we return. Walked thru SW Kensinton to Earl’s Court tube station and took the deeply buried Blue line to very close to the museum. Bought night light and sink stopper and stamps on the way.
Saw Egyptian and Assyrian areas. Had tea and cake in museum cafe 11?20 to 11?55. Went thru Assyrian and Greek areas, including friezes from the Parthenon brought out after the Turkish powder stored there exploded.
Had lunch at the museum. I had Lemon squash which really does appear to have the whole lemon “squashed” into it. Ugh!
Walked several blocks to the new British Library. Toured the treasures exhibit. Very tired by 2 p.m. at the library so went back to hotel via Kings Cross and Circle lines to KHS. Stopped for coffee &.. at new restaurant that opened only the week before and are still “running in” the shop!
Room keys were cancelled, so got them re-activated. Spoke with desk re reservation. Technique: I have no named reservation but am the “2/26 who stay”. No issue w/ room inventory but no named ciscrete reservation either.
Showered and off to group meeting. All but 2 of the list are here. Got more literature. Packed bags for quick movement in the morning. Dinner at Green’s with the group. Walked about with 3 ladies of the group. Had tea & cake with Bren @ Muffin Man. Made love. Slept badly; woke about 1 am and feel that I stayed awake about 2 hours. Nose, lungs…
May 9, 2000 Brenda
To British Museum. Saw Rosetta Stone, Mummies and Elgin Marbles from the Parthenon, Assyrian reliefs showing wars, captures, lion hunts – all artwork with violence. Went to the British National Library. In the special antiquities section – Magna Carta, Gutenberg Bible, old Hebrw Bible, books, music. Saw the library collection of King George III, given to the English people by his son George IV, but only if it would be kept totally as a single unit, and it still is. Met the other people on the trip. Had dinner and a short walk after.
May 10, 2000 Charlie
Up @ 5:45 a.m., paid off room (2 pds 72 shillings) extra charges, had nice Continental breakfast in Green Room.
Loaded onto coach and left @ 8. Stopped at a highway rest stop for about 10 min.
Ate lunch at Sally Lunn’s in Bath then walked the town and shops. (Ate with Nancy and John Rolston. Bought souvenirs.
Stopped at a 2nd rest stop for about 25 min. Tom and Marie Loveall. Arrived at hotel about 5 p.m.
Excellent dinner. Had beer (CW) and wine (BW) before. Phyllis F, Rita M, Myra F Had group meeting. Details for stay
Dinner at 6:30. Bar at dining room open at 6. Breakfast at 8 a.m. Buy water at Port Isaac. Thursday couch @ 9:15 with packed lunch available at 9. at reception. Read Port Isaac. 5 miles back to hotel on CC path from intermediate point. Expect rain and mud. Prepare for big temprature change also. Washed lightly and to be about 9:15. Tired. Took walk after lecture with Katherine L, Lour L. Marjorie W.
May 10, 2000 Brenda
Had breakfast and took coach to Cornwall. Stopped for a break after 1 1@ hours and were in Bath after another hour. Walked around for a couple of hours and left again. Rested once more and arrived in Trebetherick at the St. Moritz Hotel around 5. Had a great dinner – three courses – crab bisque soup, salmon with asparagus, and strawberry ice cream. All good. Had meeting about tomorrow which will be 5 miles along the Coastal Path from near Port Isaac to our hotel – to see how we do as a group. Went for a walk down towards the beach for about half an hour in the evening.
May 11, 2000 Trebetherick Charlie
Briefly: Drove to Port Isaac and then drove near Lundy Hale and walked back about 5 miles to the hotel. Cold was rough in the a.m. but got better. Slept well 9 p.m. to 6 a.m. Cold has moved down into lungs. Went to store after breakfast and got two more kinds of cough and sinus medicine. Got about 6 postcards for friends and family.
Breakfast was large. I had kippers. Picked up sack lunch and off to Port Isaac. Each lunch different from each other. Potato chips were all flavored and “funny”. Explored the town on foot. Saw shope, alleys, houses, etc. Drove past Bee Center to car park near Lundy Hale. Quite a bit of up and down to get over the valley while staying close to the cliff line. Lunch about 1 near the Rumps. Bren went with the 80 % of the group which climbed one of the 2 rump points. I fell off the trail while helping Agnes by the arm. Rolled clear over 360 degrees. Luck not at real edge of cliff. Reached car park about 1.5 miles from hotel where (1) called Florence and (2) left Agnes on a bench while guide #2 (Mike) went on foot for his car.
Passed over Polzeath sands @ low tide and on to hotel. Slept about 1 1/2 hours, washed, ate, saw Cornwall Conservation slide show. Slept well.
May 11, 2000 Brenda
Took coach to Port Isaac (corn port). Spent a few minutes roaming around – a very picturesque town – hilly streets – little alleyways.
Coach took us to near Lundy Hale where we started our hike. Had some ups and downs – saw a sea cave, lots of flowers, sheep. Had lunch near the Rumps and after went up to top of one of them.
One of the ladies had a tough time of it and Mike (leader two) had to get his car to drive her back to the hotel. Only a five-mile hike, but it seemed longer. After shower Carlie (cough/cold) took a nap. I went down to find the pool and met some of the group in the bar there. Chatted for awhile. Meals are really good here!
May 12, 2000 Charlie
Briefly: Walk to Rock via St Enodoc Church (banana spire) which is in the golf course. Took the ferry to Padstow, town tour 1, Prideux Place lunch and tour, town II, ferry II, Rock to hotel.
Bought water at store after breakfast; but go seltzer in error. Splashed up on me and others when opened in Padstow. Ferry was like a landing craft, and did in fact nose up onto the sand (as at Normandy) and drop it’s ramp. Carried about 60.
St. Enodoc was neat. It had been buried in the dunes at one time Sir John Betjeman and his mother are buried there. Bought some art in Padstow, a print. Prideux Place tour was quite nice; had good guides. Agnes did not go with us. The two hikes totaled about 4 miles. After dinner had a Sir John Betjeman poetry reading, with drama! Quite nice. He had an unhappy childhood and unsupportive father who were estranged for many years, until end. “sand in the sandwiches and wasps in the tea”. Slept 1/2 hour before dinner; cold getting better, but Brenda feels she’s getting it.
Washed all clothes using regular soap whilst sitting in the tub! Weather has been cloudy and humid, so clothes do not always dry in 24 hours. We go to the bar every evening at 6 for 1/2 hr. Bren has a glass of white wine and I have 1/2 pint of beer. Food is quite good: starter, entree, dessert, coffee. Lots of conversation in bar and at table. we move about each evening to change partners and eventually get to meet all. Had tea in Padstow w/ Hildegard and Shirley.
May 12, 2000 Brenda
Today walked from the hotel to the ferry slip in Rock. Ferried across to Padstow. Walked around a bit and then met again as a group and walked up to Prideaux Place for lunch and tour. We were met, in front, by the owner whose family has lived there for 400 years. The house was built in 1592. Our guide was very entertaining and took us to several rooms to talk about the various masters of the place. The lunch was small. We had wheat bread and egg or mushroom or ham sandwiches with some fresh fruit. We all stood about chatting, but didn’t sit to eat! We were poured tea or coffee by some of the “help” from the village.
Before we had gotten on the ferry, we walked through a golf course to visit S. Enodoc Church (in the midst of the golf course) to visit the grave of Sir John Betjeman, a poet laureate of England. We walked back to the hotel after the ferry ride and after dinner we listened to a reading of Sir John’s poems. Very entertaining. The night before we listened to a speaker talk about the flora and fauna of the area vis-a-vis preservation and conservation (not too interesting). Tonight’s lecture was much better. We also had cream tea in the afternoon. Too much food! Too much fat!
May 13, 2000 Charlie
Briefly: Tin mine at St. Agnes and Lanhydrock House at Bodmin. Left at 9 with sack lunch. Drove SW to St. Agnes for P.C. (?), then to Blue Streams tin operation. He really runs a working museum with sales of final tin as jewelry. Real price of tin is about 0.15 dollars a pound. At Lanhydrock we toured the house, had tea with Bill and Marie, read at the horse dressage trials and read some more (Bren walked down to the main gate house).
After dinner Bren and I walked into upper Polzeath; past their first put. Called Dad and Florence (Mother’s Day next), neither at home. Did the 8 pm trip planning (without lecture) and touched on Monday. Decided to go with David on Gun Hill/Padstow hike.
Horse trials were interesting. Helping put the knocked-down rails back up gives the teenage girls a chance to show very tight jodphurs and Mel Gibson-like butts. (Two separate Elderhostel ladies said one of our Prideaux Place guide had a lovely butt). Passed by Bodmin and saw the Beacon 2X; once close. Town is big and modern with about 13,000 people. I do have a leaflet. Bren spoke with Florence from our room.
May 13, 2000 Brenda
Went to Blue Hills tin mine for a tour and explanation of the tin mining process. The tin mine was near St. Agnes. Dad would have enjoyed this trip. Have a cold – not too happy about it.
From there we went by coach to Lanhydrock House and Gardens. This was a family with 10 children. One died in infancy, the oldest son died in WWI. Not one of them had a son. I think there was one daughter – the last one of the 10 gave the estate to the National Trust. There are some 81 rooms. We saw the kitchens to start off with – there were about 8 rooms in the kitchen. Each area had it’s own room e.g. Dairy scullery, fish scullery, bread preparing room, etc. Unbelievable! Saw some of the other rooms, but the kitchen was the best. There was a dressage and jumping (horses) contest on the grounds with lots of girls and women taking part.
Bought a pin for Mom and me (cat) at the tine mine. Tried calling Mom to wish her a Happy Mother’s Day, but she was out.
May 14, 2000 Charlie
Briefly: Walked from Tintagel to Boscastle via a mix of field, forest, and coast paths. Did Tintagel Castle 10-11 and hiked 11:30-3:15 in 3 groups. Group A did 100% Coast Path, Group B (ours) did 50% Coast Path, and Group C rode the bus for 10 min./6 miles.
Tintagel was built by Henry III, son of the Earl of Richmond as an image bolsterer on the site of a former 4th century settlement on top of an Iron Age settlement in a site supposed to have housed King Arthur. Many steps up/down. Top is like a mesa. Got some sun cream from one member of the party, so sought more at a shop; which turned out to be owned/operated by the bus driver’s wife.
Saw “The old post office” at Tintagel. Walked wi Group B up over fields, and roads/lanes to St. Nectan’s Glen on the upper Rocky River. Ate lunch at St Petroc’s well and church yard. Saw the Group C bus (left Tintagel at 13:07 to pass by at 13:15). We all stopped in one isolated lane to split into men/woman to make use of field toilet. Passed on to Trevalga and it’s church and joined the Coast Path there just a few minutes ahead of Group A (who came into view).
Two steep climbs near Grower Gut and West Block Hole. Had steps and rails. Bren went on to Coast Guard tower at top of Willapark and had tea in town. Shopped. Looked at collapsible caves at National Trust 18 pounds and commercial 40 pounds. Tourist area is all down in the Valency Valley near the junction with Jordan Valley.
At dinner there was a loud crowd of golfers. The after dinner presentation was about King Arthur; but we left after about 1.1 hours as he was disjointed and only 60% done. He went on to 9:30!
May 14, 2000 Mother’s Day Brenda
Called Mom this morning. It was Saturday night there. She told me Ben wanted us to buy him a folding bike. It is $800 in the States, but only $500 in England. Haven’t heard from Ben. Today we’re off to Tintagel and Boscastle. We’ll walk the 6 1/2 mile route (not along the cliff).
Saw some old churches between Tintagel and Boscastle. At Tintagel were ruins of old castle (not King Arthur’s) from around the 11th century. Arthur was about 450-55 a.d. Town is tatally geared to tourist trade and King Arthur. Boscastle is nice town. Situated along the river are the tourist places, and further uptown are the homes of the citizens. Bus picked us up there about 4:15. Had dinner – roast beef, Yourkshire pudding (not too good). Listened to a really boring, disjointed speaker about King Arthur. Left in middle to go to sleep. Don’t feel well – cold.
May 15, 2000 Charlie
Free day Bren’s sickness is at peak, so we will not be agressive; hence we will not go on the full hike with David. Washed pajamas (unusual) and prepared mailings for USA – all our papers and pictures gathered so far.
Gave modestly accurate advice to Louise L for (Louise, Katherine and Marjorie) trip to St. Ives via Penzance train; plus map on Penzance.
Bussed to Rock and ferried (1 pound 60 roundtrip) to Padstow sand.12:03 ff will be from the wharf as tide comes in.
David Call and about 6 went on round the point hike. Ruth and Stephanie (her daughter) stayed in Padstow, as did Bren and I. Went to Post Office and sent 97% of stuff to FGP in one bubble pack and a box. Cost for both was 20 pounds. Both airmail. * weeks on surface mail.
Found Rick Stein’s and decided to do lunch there 12-12:30. Went for tea in the Drang, but closed due to staffing difficulties Sun and Mon. Had just tea (commercial grade in a cup; get your own saucer) on the Strand. I sat on a bench at the harbor and read a book on Cornish archeology while Bren went shopping; this for an hour. Ate lunch (after 20 minute wait in hallway, but not out into the street on queue). Plan: return by ferry and get Bren back to or near enough to hotel for a nap with me going on a loop hike in Polzeath area.
Walked Coast Path a bit and then climbed the south face of Brea Hill. Saw 3 barrows on top. Bren went to bed for a nap and I went on a hike along a “freen line” route over the fields and through the weeds to Polzeath. Bought a paper re Intel; still at about $115 a share. Called Dave from the corner box; he’s done with law school, and writing an article for a Law Review “contest”. Went back to room and called him again for Bren. Very good post-dinner lecture on the Bronze/Iron age period.
May 15, 2000 Brenda
Don’t feel too well. Took boat to Padstow, walked around the shops. Bought a set of coasters. Had lunch at Rick Stein’s restaurant (written up as a great place to eat in a travel magazine.
Took the boat back, walked up to hilltop, 3 barrow, tumuli, pre-history bronze age. Walked back to hotel via Daymer Beach. Looked around the craft store near hotwl. Took nap while Charlie went for a walk. Listened to talk at 8 about standing stones and other pre-history sites. Best speaker so far. Had a fit of coughing and had to leave room to recover. Had some Bronze Age axes.
May 16, 2000 Charlie
Briefly: Bus to Bronze Age stones near Zennor, St. Ives. Raines at Lanyon Quoit and across the moor as we walked to the Stones near the Ding Dong tin mine. A party appeared to be scattering cremation ashes at Lanyon Quoit; but the box was too small for a USA human (??)
Ainnor had one pub and one church and one closed hostel. Very wet so ate chicken pie in the public house Tinner’s Arms. Rain, gray, grim. Walked around St. Ives, had tea, bought 1 object d’art. Slep in bus coming home, quite sunny. Bren’s pack mostly, and mine somewhat are not waterproof. Rain and wins storm began after dinner. Bill for bar and phone was about 27 pounds. Bren’s cold getting better, she’s perking up. We had a nice stroll through St. Ives together; then the group added some more walking to the coach.
May 16, 2000 Brenda
Took coach to Penzance for bathroom stop – saw St. Michael’s Mount. Went for walk on moorland to see some megalithic remains. Was rainy and wet. Wind blowing! Went to Zennor and saw small museum very quickly after eating lunch in a pub. Went to St. Ives for walk around town. Bought a cat picture. Last day in Cornwall. Tomorrow to Cotswolds.
May 17, 2000 Charlie
Briefly: Coach trip of about 5 hours with a 2 hour stop in Wells. Slept and read as we coached thru the rain. In Wells we ate at a pub recommended by Rick Steves; but it took nearly a full hour to find it and eat. Bernie and Edith also came in. Founder’s Inn? Cathedral was neat, quite impressive in architecture and decoration.
Arrived in Chipping Campden via Broadway and Broadway Tower about 4:30 and checked into Room 1, facing the High Street. Walked the town a bit befor dinner at 7:30.
May 17, 2000 Wednesday Brenda
Took bus to Wells for a 2 hour stop. Cathedral is absolutely fabulous and it’s totally amazing that people could build it around the 12th and 13th centuries. It took until the 14th century before it was completed.
From Wells we went to Chipping Campden to our hotel The Noel Arms. We’re on High Street. The room is really nice – two twin beds, with armchairs, quite a large bathroom but a tine closet with 3 hangers. We’re in Room 1. Again there are 3 courses for dinner. Food is good. Two long tables here instead of several round tables as in Cornwall. Took a walk around town on High Street and saw two fabric stores and a needlecraft shop.
May 18, 2000 Thursday Charlie
Briefly: Tour Roman Villa and walk down Coln Valley to Bibury. 45 minute coach trip to the large Roman-like villa of a wealthy Celtic lord turned to supplying food etc. to the Roman garrison. Lots of on and off rain as we walked 5 miles down the Coln from Foss Bridge (on the A44?) to Arlington and Bibury. We used umbrellas until Coln Rogers, then changed into full kit (Gortex top and bottom – hot.
Dave said it was ok to eat in the pews of the church; I went outside to the “porch” and ate on a bench with 8 others; Bren followed once she recognized her sin. The group made a privacy stop in diagonally opposite corners of the large and treed church yard. Rain was off and on for the next 2 hours until near Ablington. We skipped 2-3 muddy trails in favor of roads. At Coln St. Denis the Coln was nearly up onto the path. From a hill settlement near Arlington we crossed 5 hard stiles in just 1 km. Nearly all the group went to one tea room while waiting for the coach. Filled several tables.
Saw some 100-200 pound/ft paintings next door to the tea room. Saw Viking tombstone set into the wall of Bibury church. Bren saw woman back up into a farm wagon with her car. Saw no trout in the Coln.
Lecture was Chipping Campden history by the Wardens (2).
May 18, 2000 Thursday Brenda
Took walk from Chedworth Roman Villa. Before walk had tour around the remains of the villa. Excavations are ongoing. Especially displayed and preserved are the Roman baths with all the different usage rooms.
From there we walked to Arlington/Bibury. We took the walk along the River Coln. It rained in buckets for parts of the walk. We stopped in several churches along the way in Coln St. Denis and Coln Rogers. Had lunch at St. Andrew Church. Walked across fields, climbed over stiles and ended in Arlington Row in Bibury. Had tea and went into an art gallery. Bought some cards from the artist. Need to give Marjorie her name. Had a talk after dinner by Wardens of Chipping Campden.
May 19, 200 Friday Charlie
Briefly: Chipping Campden town tour, shopping, Dover Hill climb.
the Cotswold Wardens took us on a 1 1/2 hour town tour ending at the St James Church for a lecture. Our guide was Ann. We (Bren and I) ate at the Pub of the Swordsmen; we had baguette sandwiches. I had a Beck. We went home and slept for an hour since the shops are closed 1-2 p.m. Went shopping up and down the High Street. Ordered a cast aluminum plaque for our Las Vegas “Winterhaven Cottage” for 120 pounds. We climbed Dover Hill via 2 separate up/down trails in about 1.3 hours. The midday wreck at Kingcomb Junction was still being cleared! Got lots of sheep dung on our boots.
Washed many clothes, and boot cleats after dinner and lecture: took me about an hour. Lecture was on Civil War; dry but useful.
I got bored and left Bren to shop alone; her productivity went up. Shipped 3 envelopes to Florence; 2 gifts and 1 calendar. Staff sleep above us; and played TV 3-4 a.m. Bren complained and not repeated Sat. night.
Friday, May 19, 2000 Brenda
Had talk last night about the history of Chipping Campden and about the way the buildings were constructed. This morning we met with four wardens in four groups to tour the town. Before we did, we went on a walk by ourselves to Broad Campden. Saw thatched houses and a home once owned by Richard Todd, an actor from the 40s and 50s.
Then we met with Warden for tour of town. Ended in church to see where Sir Baptiste, his wife, daughters are buried. After, Charlie and I had lunch at put “The Eight Bells”. Had a tunnel under the floor that led to church? Did some shopping at the Silver artist Robert Welch’s store. Ordered a red plaque “Winterhaven Cottage” Went for walk up Dover Hill. Saw oodles of sheep. After dinner had talk by someone about the Civil War – Royalists vs Roundheads. Tomorrow we go to Warwick and Blenheim Palace.
Saturday, May 20, 2000 Charlie
Briefly CW a.m. walk, CW and BW morning, Warwick (town), Winston Churchill grave, Blenheim Palace.
At dinner, Jane was complaining that her tuna steak was thinner than others, so waitress brought 2 out (thin) to show her; she objected, so I offered her my thicker one, she refused and quieted. At Blenheim Jane wandered off without a watch (her no-watch policy) and delayed or departure. Lecture was on farming; quite good. Both the Churchill branches, Winston and the Duke of Marlborough had American wives, Consuelo Vanderbilt and Jennie Spencer (not American). Bernie and Edith have a 2nd home on an island between the mainland and Whidbey Island near Mukilteo.
May 20, 2000 Brenda
Coach to Warwick. Since we were there before, we walked around town. First stop was the Friend’s Meetinghouse teashop for tea. We had looked in the Doll Museum store and then the T.I. for tourist information. Walked around and looked in many stores. Saw Lord Leycester Hospital (buildings mostly form the 14th century), two gates from the old walled city and went into St. Mary’s church to look at the tomb of Robert Dudley who was Queen Elizabeth I special friend. (Duke of Leicester). We saw the old hospital of Leicester, which was from before the fire in Warwick (very old).
We had lunch at the “Tudor House” which was from the 15th century. The lunch was a buffet. From there we wnt to Blayton Cemetery to view the grave of Sir Winston Churchill. He was buried with his wife, father, mother, son etc. From there we went to Blenheim Palace where Sir Winston was born. His father’s brother was the Duke of Marlboro and lived in Blenheim. Winston arrived seven weeks early while is mother was at a function and gave birth to him there. He never lived there, just visited. Incredible that people live like that. Great sets of dishes from China, Germany (Meisen) and France. There was to be a party there that evening and table were se up in the great hall. It is 67 feet high. Wonderful tapestries on the walls celebrating the original duke’s victory over the French in the 18th century.
Sundaym May 21 Chipping Campden Charlie
Briefly: 10 miles Cotswold. Coach 9:20, with prepared lunch, Way hike from Stanton back to the hotel. Stanton to Broadway 5 miles, 700 ft. gain and 700 ft descent. Broadway to Chipping Campden 5 miles and 700 ft. up and down again. Passed by Broadway Tower. Saw the Kiftsgate Stone. Nice hike. Broadway was interesting and had lots of shops.
First 700 ft. climb was short and steep; second was steep up 1/3 of the way then gradual to Broadway Tower. Muddy going down both times. Ate on Broadway common to maximize shopping time. The “girls” walked very fast (about 3 miles/hr) on the Broadway Tower to Dover Hill stretch along the “Mile Way”.
May 21, 2000 Brenda
To Stanton for a 10 mile hike in the rain to Broadway and then back to Chipping Campden. When we got off the bus, the rain stopped. We had NO RAIN at all!!! Left Stanton and climbed up to top of scarp and down to Broadway to eat boxed lunch. Looked around town for 1/2 hour and then on to Broadway Tower. From there to Chipping Campden down on the Cotswold Way path. Saw lots of sheep. Only about 10 of us went on this hike. Another group started the hike at Broadway for a 5 mile hike. Tonight no speaker.
Monday, May 22, 2000 Charlie
Briefly: Walk the Windrush and Eye rivers from Naughton to Upper Slaughter and Lower Slaughter to Bourton-on-the-Water. Visit Hidcote Gardens at Hidcote Manor. Took a pre-breakfast walk with Bren past St. James toward the old Chipping Campden railroad station; did not get there within time budget. Used the split-n-shit technique 2x; once for male, once for female.
Bought 2 pictures in Borton, had takeout tea and takeout pastry. 25 and 35 pounds. Sent 1 pkg to Florence. Back to Chipping Campden; bought a large red cast-iron hour glass.
Windrush and Eye were nice. Ate lunch at Lower Slaughter on benches, watched ducks quarrel over turf? Bren is sad about “camp” being over…
May 22, 2000 Brenda
We’ll hike from Naunton to Bourton-on-the-Water via Upper and Lower Slaughter. Had a nice 6 mile hike. Had lunch in Lower Slaughter along the Eye River. Ended up in Bourton-on-the-Water.
Bought a picture of Lower Slaughter and an appliqued picture for Mom. Stayed for about an hour and then came back to the hotel, dropped some people off and went on to Hidcot. It’s a wonderful garden with acres of different hidden nooks; lilacs, roses, tulips, and a handkerchief tree (very rare) from China. We had tea there and then came back to the hotel.
While walking to Bourton, we saw a man clipping the hooves of the sheep. He had the lambs outside the fenced off area and was working on the ewes. The lambs were bleating for their moms. It was so special. Tonight’s our last night in the Cotswolds. Some people are leaving us from Oxford tomorrow.
Tuesday, May 23, 2000 To London Charlie
Briefly: Pack, travel to Oxford for a 2 hour On Your Own tour, then to London. Same people splitting off before-at London, others split Wednesday, some stay/return. We seem to be the only ones staying until Monday…
Toured Oxford in heavy rain. Walked down to an acceptable student clientele coffee shop for tea and cake at 11:30. Walked the tour in the rain; using Gortex tops and umbrellas – bottoms have been sent to USA already. Met various of our people as went along. Paused in a full-block indoor market to use the WC. Saw rough street couple arguing about drugs? Assisted some tourists in finding way…
Slept poorly last night, so slept almost all the way to London. Arrived @ Forte Posthouse Kensington about 3. Got room 253 assigned as per Elderhostel. Went to Reception to handle safe, phone, 5 day add-on. Reservation found with difficulty. (not on first try).
Found PO and bought boxes to mail stuff home. Bought a red Liverpool FC 2000 shirt for David. Looked at a collapsible bike for Ben as per telephone call with Ben, but pounds to dollars and vat and customs and 24 pounds to carry all suggest better to buy in USA> Called Ben and left message. Final dinner with the group. There is at least one other Elderhostel group in the hotel – doing Gardens of the West (Cornwall and Cotswolds)!
Went for a long walk with Marjorie, about 1.2 hours around the area. Found the saddlery on Thackery St. The phone card doesn’t work “out of service at this time” and the hotel gift shop does not sell that card any more! Maybe went bankrupt.
Packed 3 boxes for mailing. Agreed to buy and transport the bike for Ben.
May 23, 2000 Brenda
Off to London via Oxford. John and Nancy are off to Scotland from here. Louise and Kathryn will go to Cambridge from Oxford. Some of the people are going to a play. We bought a shirt for David at a shop in Oxford for one of the Oxford colleges. In London, we bought him a Liverpool 2000 soccer shirt.
Wednesday May 24, 2000 London Charlie
Briefly: Tour and errands (PO, bike) Called bike place, may come from factory today or tomorrow.
Went to Patent Office (new location) via Temple station and Law Court area. Got a picture (cartoon) for David at a “lawyer shop”. Got dry and hungry; ate donut at KFC at the Tower to recover.
Met Steve the motorcyclist for the Jewish Quarter walk; about 25 people. Went thru history and lanes to Bevis Marks synagogue. Saw Moses Montefiore’s seat and Sukkah. The Royal family and the Lord Mayor of the City are the only ones allowed to use his seat. 5% of London Jews are Sephardic (as are the 200 members of the Bevis Marks synagogue). There are about 100 synagogues in London now. Jews live (migrated) west along the Bakerloo Line.
Ate lunch at the Spitz restaurant inside Spitalfields Market, a Sunday market. (Blue laws allowed market in Jewish areas on Sunday).
Back to nap and to mail 3 boxes to W, BW, FG for 28, 28,and 9 pounds for 65 pounds about $100 air.
Pub group not too good in our bar at the hotel. Bought and used new phone card 5 pounds. Old one, when queried via customer service, had changed access number, but refused to change message “no service now, goodbye” at old access number.
Raced crosstown to 7:30 walking tour with about 20 people called Ghosts, Gaslight, and Guinness with Richard III – an unhappy fellow! Saw Lincoln’s Inn and theater district. Bought snickers as dinner. Bed at 11 after Bren left a 3rd voice mail for her mom.
Bought more detailed map of London which shows alleys. Very cluttered but better for detail work after locate area with book map. Pub walk in evening went to 1 put. Bren saw Diana Riggs parking and going into a dry cleaners on Earls Court Road near Abingdon.
May 24, 2000 Brenda
Called Mom three times to wish her a happy birthday, but she wasn’t there. Went of two London Walks. One was to the “Old Jewish Quarter” and at 7:30 p.m. “Ghosts, Gaslight & Guinness”. Both were interesting. I think the guides, in general, are actors who are probably not too successful. We mailed our stuff (boots, etc) back home for over $100! Ben’s bike wasn’t at the bike shop yet. We had dinner in the hotel’s pub – not good at all! On way to post office, we saw Diana Riggs. She’s a large woman.
Thursday, May 25, 2000 London Charlie
Worked with B of A credit card re problem to draw cash. Leslie @ B of A/mc said they put a hold on :large” transactions ~ 28 April due to LV furniture trip charges.
Did St Paul’s cathedral in the morning before our 11:00 walk. Saw Nelson, Wellington, Montgomery, et al tombs. Raced through the city to join the 11 am walk with 51 people. Took Greenwich boat – fast walk. Nice talk on the river boat about all the docks, pubs, houses, ets. Donated 2 LBS to the boatmen.
Walked the “seawall” from Cutty Sark (poem by Robert Burns with its witch and the horsetail at the bow. Discussed ecology of the Thames. Saw the Trafalger Pub.
Went into the park of the Naval Museum and Queen’s House to watch the Greenwich Observatory ball drop at 1:00 pm (every day). Had a nice chicken parm at an Italian restaurant in Greenwich center. Bought prints and a wooden cat for the house.
Walked under the Thames thru a foot tunnel to the Isle of Dogs. Found (missed at first) the Dockland Light Rail station and took it thru Canary Wharf to Bank tube station. Waited thru 4 District trains for a Circle, so took District to Gloucester w/ intention to walk.
Ate cake and ice cream w/ coffee at Hagen Das at Glouchester Road. Walked home tired at about 5 pm. Went on “upper crust” walk; got to Sloane Square station about 50 minutes early so walked thru the Chelsea Flower Show crowd to Battersea Bridge and back. Tour went with Richard III (again) with just 6 clients. The Piccadilly Line was “down”; Richard expected about 20 people. Walked Belgravia neighborhood.
Had a beer @ 2 pubs of 3: Antelope, Star, Grenadier (didn’t go in) and walked to Hyde Park corner and tubed home via 2 lines. Quarreled about dinner at 10:30; had none.
May 25, 2000 Brenda
Had breakfast in Green’s Room. We went to St. Paul’s on the way to meet with Tom of the “London Walks” for a boat trip to Greenwich. St. Paul’s Cathedral is outstanding!
We didn’t give it enough time, but as it was, we had to race to the Tower station to meet the group at 11 am. We took a boat down to Greenwich and the boat staff person described what we were seeing on both sides of the river. Saw the Ferris Wheel (The Eye), and the Centennial Dome.
We saw the Cutty Sark, a sailing ship that was never #1 on the tea run, but was #1 on the wool run. Cutty Sark was a witch in the poem Tam o’Shanter by Robert Burns. We also saw the Gypsy Moth IV sailed around the world by Sir Francis Chichester all by himself for a record run. He died soon after of cancer. We didn’t go up to the Greenwich Observatory nor straddle the “0” meridian.
Had lunch at an Italian restaurant, was pretty good. Looked in shops and bought some pictures and a wooden cat. Bought a puzzle for work. Took regular monorail back to London. Stopped for coffee at a Haggen Daz place and walked back to hotel. Went to meet Richard III for a walk around Belgravia with 2 pub stops. The Antelope Tavern first and then The Star. We ended our walk in front of the Grenadier Tavern. Didn’t have dinner – too late – too slow in restaurant to seat us. Tired, grumpy.
Fri. May 26, 2000 London Charlie
Off at 7 am to try BofA credit card and other 2 as set of three at ATM. All 3 cards worked.
No formal walk planned. Worde out plan for Sat and Sunday. Went to post office ad mailed 2 packages, puzzle and clothes.
Walked Brompton and The Boltons, found the fabric shop at Old Brompton Road and Bina Gardens. Bren spent quite a bit of time there while I had tea a few doors away, then she joined me.
Moved on thru driving rain to Harrods. Felt intimidated by our clothes, gear, etc. Looked at gloves for Mistress Bren, but all were 40 pounds (abt $60.) and up so bought nothing. Looked at one food area, but left.
Moved by tube and foot to the “Noshery” in Halborn area on Greville St. a Jewish restaurant. Had an excellent schnitzel w/ salad. They xeroxed the reference in the tour guide. Walked about 1.3 miles from Halborn to London Canal Museum at Battlebridge Basin in Islington sector. Nice canal boat museum! Tubed home around 5 pm, slept 1/2 hour, then off to dinner. Looked at several pubs at 6 to 6:30, but all full and/or smoky. Went as far as Notting Hill Gate (Parrot and Rat of 2 weeks ago)> Retreated to Kensington Palace Restaurant for an excellent 77 pound $110 meal. I felt we were underdressed, but many of the other diners were dressed like us. Restaurant opened at 6:30, we came at 6:40 and maitre de said he needed the table at 8:30. We were unbooked, but it worked out.
Checked out Tara Hotel across the street. Nice. Has real lobby with placed to sit. Bar has no smoke. Many Americans! Believe we will dine there tomorrow.
Spoke at length with David.
May 26, 2000 Brenda
Should pick up bicycle today – no not ready.
We walked to post office to mail packages. Walked down Warwick Ave. to Old Brompton Road to try to find fabric store that Bette King told me about. Took a detour around The Boltons and continued on Brompton. Found shop – incredible amount of fabric. Went to Harrods after for a look around. Tried on some gloves.
Went to Noshery for lunch, which was recommended in a book about London. Had sweet and sour meatballs – good. Walked from there to the Canal Boat Museum in Islington. Looked around. Had sample boat to look at. Rain all day – really wet. In evening went to look for dinner – pubs too smoky – really best for lunch. Went in Kensington Restaurant for dinner. Worried about being underdressed. Very good food – very expensive.
Sunday, May 27, 2000 London Charlie
Briefly: Shakespeare tour in am 10-1 (after final mailing of 2 items), followed by bike buy in Campden, then rush to 5 pm theatre, then dinner at the Tara Hotel next door.
The Shakespeare tour was with Emily, wife of Edward the actor. Boated with about 60 people from the Eye at the south end of Westminster Bridge to the “Globe Pier” at the south end of Southwark Bridge.
5pm theatre was The Mousetrap at the Saint Martin’s theatre on West Street. We arrived about 5 minutes late; curtain up was bery prompt. We were in 3rd level (2nd balcony) in very tight seats.
Bike was purchased at Simpson’s Cycles in Kentish Town at the Chalk Hill tube station. I bought a suitcase “trolley” to wheel the box about London, and the optional 30 pound bag to cover the folded bike and mike it tube legal. Had a Perilous journey back to the hotel with the bike in tow, on escalators, in lift and in arms ( up and down stairs). This whilst the Circle Line was delayed due to fault at Piccadilly. High blood pressure trip!!
Ate nice dinner (3 courses at 20 pounds each, for 51 pound overall. Many Americans, several/ most well dressed. Raining as left; in fact stormed with hail as we wnt to the bike shop.
Shakespear area in Southwark had prison, fruit market, ub. Bren sat in the Ferryman’s Seat in an alley near the “seawall” while the group went by.
Re-batteried Bren’s camera in a quick 3 minute operation near the Bishop’s Goodyard. (Bishop’s geese were his personal mistresses). (To be bitten by the geese was to get syphallis.
May 27,2000 Brenda
Took London Walk with Emily to Southwark. Met at Monument Station, crossed Westminster Bridge to catch boat at the Eye, the biggest Ferris Wheel in the world. Ferried down to dock near the Globe Theatre. Didn’t go in. Emily talked about Sam Wannamaker, the actor, how he had worked to have The Globe rebuilt. Saw gate with emblems from around the world. She said because of the different plagues, people had sores on their necks. Someone designed a “piccadill” the ruff people wore abound their necks. From that cam Piccadilly. We went to the church Shakespeare attended – saw where is brother was buried. Shakespeare paid extra for him to be buried in the church rather than in the churchyard.
Had lunch at an old pub – a coaching Inn “The George”. We left there to go to Chalk Hills to Simpson Bike Shop. We got soaked – it hailed, the wind blew. We couldn’t find the shop at first, but were directed there by a boy. The owner of the shop showed us the bike; we bought a bike bag for it. It was repacked in the box with the air removed from the tires. Charlie went to the market to buy a luggage carrier so that we could bring the bike back to the hotel. Lousy day – Charlie was angry about the bike, having to cart it around. We went to the theatre to see “The Mousetrap”, (45 years of performances). It started at 5, we got there at 5:03, delay due to from where the bike had to be hauled. Play was slow and slightly boring. Went to dinner at the hotel next door at the Tara. Meal was good – no smoke in their pub – expensive and slow.
On the walk with Emily – she asked for a volunteer to sit in a little hole – I volunteered and sat in the “ferryman’s seat” from the days when there was only the London Bridge – ergo lots of ferries. The seat was carved out from the wall of a building!
Sunday, May 28, 2000 London Charlie
Leisurely breakfast and then quick pressured trip to Hampstead. The trains ran slow due to Sunday etc. We used the trainman’s rule: Take the first train that comes!! Arrived at Hampstead about 10 minutes late. Started search for the group; found them by luck on the 2nd lobe of our search.
Hampstead with Charles was a nice walk. The village sits at 500 ft. elevation; above the smog of coal burning London.
Had a nice Sunday Special pub meal at the King William IV pub. Watched a French couple make crepes in a sidewalk wagon.
Tubed 3 lines, 2 airline miles. Saw lota of police (in sets of 5) @ Bank station due to soccer fans passing thru to a game (rowdy).
Little Venice walk with Emily (again); she remembered Brenda; was nice. The area is mixed high $ (1-5 million) houses, and council housing to replace bombed areas around Paddington.
Had cream tea at a canal-side, canal oriented cafe. Too much to eat: 2 scones and one pie each. Made 7:30 dinner reservation at Maggie Jones @ 5:30 on the way home; but cancelled later (rain, tired).
Checked out Paddinton and Circle lines (stairs, ramps, etc) along the way to British Airlines route.
Did some sorting and throwing as pre-packing. Also got nose bleed.
On balance a good trip. My anxiety makes it hard sometimes for Bren to manage me.
Ate in our hotel’s “Italian” restaurant.
May 28, 2000 Brenda
Today we saw Louise again from our Elderhostel trip. She and Kathryn were leaving for the States. Had breakfast and left late to go to Hampstead for a walk with “Charlie”. We had to hunt them down because we were late. It poured! Interesting talk about the architecture of the area and the people whom lived there, Barrie of Peter Pan, the father and grandfather of Daphne Du Maurier. He told of the French arriving there and hiding their Catholic Church in an innocuous building. Told us about Emma Hamilton and Nelson. We had lunch in a pub and then tubed to the second walk of the day – Little Venice. Emily was the guide there too. Had an interesting look at the houses, the architecture, the expensive homes on one side of the street and the Council Houses on the other. Part of the area was bombed out and to rebuild the Paddington area, the workers needed houses – therefore the Council Houses.
Saw a church “High Anglican” that had been rebuilt in 1700. There had been a church on that spot sin the 1600s. When Victorians took it over, they redid stuff to hide the beauty of the outside of the windows etc. It had been redone to be the way it was before the Victorians. Walked along canal a bit and saw some boats. Had tea in tea shop and came home. Too much cream tea. Made reservations in Maggie Jones for dinner at 7:30, but it’s nasty our, I’m tired ad so will eat downstairs in Italian Cafe. Tomorrow it’s back home, back to reality. I’m glad! I’m done! Can’t wait to be home.
Monday, 29 May London to Portland Charlie
Breakfast are opened 1 hour later since it’s a Bank Holiday; restaurant staff at the airport get paid 2 x..
Took cab for 38 lbs to Heathrow terminal 4; put daypacks inside our big packs so have only 3 parcels.
Paid 124 lb bill at hotel; 2 meals, phone and safe.
The bike is like duty free; I got it a baggage tag (for the hold) and had to keep the bike all the way thru to the actual gate!